Cheap Paint-Job for the TLT Tacoma
Published by Trails Less Traveled on April 9th, 2004
INTRODUCTION
)
We treated the TLT Project Tacoma to a (CHEAP) paint job. Considering the way we intend to use this truck, no paint job could be expected to last more than one year. Why waste the money on a nice one? We set a $500 budget and went price shopping to see what kind of value we could find out there. We came home with $125 in our pocket, and a decent paint job.
Maaco is a nationwide franchise that offers a single stage (basic paint, no clearcoat) paintjob for $200, and they quoted us an extra $150 because it was a truck. We scheduled an appointment and showed up with the stripped cab shown here, and a truckload full of body parts. The remaining steel body panels (cab, doors & hood) were all in good shape and did not require any bodywork. Similarly, the Glassworks Unlimited fiberglass fenders and bedsides fit well and did not require any significant prep time beyond a light sanding. Bodywork and preparation are two areas where we would rather spend our money or time to ensure that they are not done poorly. Peeling paint, pounds of Bondo and thoughtless overspray are all high on our list of things to avoid.
)
)
This is how the truck looked when we picked it up; and if these pictures don’t show much of a difference, it’s only because the paint on our cab was in pretty good condition, we had it re-painted the same color, and web colors/resolution are terrible. Because we were painting so many new body parts, we thought it would be better to have the whole truck repainted than to expect the colors to match. Removal of all these body parts is the reverse of the installation shown. Refer to an owner’s manual for further instructions.
RE-ASSEMBLY & PARTS INSTALLATION
)
Putting the truck back together from this point might look like a daunting task, but it took us less than three hours from start to finish. The only areas that got any heavy overspray were the inside of our front right tire & rim, the rear driveshaft, and an the top of the driver’s side window. If we hadn’t removed as many parts as we did, cleaning and stripping overspray off all the trim could have easily taken twice as long as just removing and re-installing the parts.
)
)
The window weather-stripping shown on the left is preformed, and is held in place by the body channel. Reinstall it with the window rolled down, and then roll the window up to seat it fully. The lower trim shown on the right is retained by several clips and is installed by sliding the piece into the corresponding channel on the body seam (with the window rolled down) and pushed down into place.
)
)
The rearview mirrors are each fastened by three metric bolts. Here the driver’s side mirror is shown being installed. Notice the weather-stripping running from the roof down the A-pillar in the image on the right. It eliminates the need for a rain gutter by creating a pressure seal to the door, and is easily reinstalled by forming and pressing the weather-stripping over the body seam, starting at one end and working through to the other.
)
)
Removing and installing the rear window is the only tricky part of work in the whole process and if you are unfamiliar with the proper technique, please defer to a professional or consult an owner’s manual. It is a tight pressure fit, and we managed to get ours out and back in without breaking. The key seems to be using soapy water and even pressure. To reinstall the window we laced a length of string through the recessed channel of the weather-stripping where it will seal to the body seam/window opening. The string should encircle the window and then be pulled through the inside of the truck, as soapy water and even pressure are applied to locate the window on the outside of the truck.
)
The rear window is shown here reinstalled. It was a tight fit working around the main hoop of our rollcage that has been welded to the frame, but there was just enough room to slip the window in between the cab and the cage.
)
)
The front windshield was not removed for paint because of the additional labor required. The front fenders are shown reinstalled after being painted. Note the fit and clearance of the Glassworks Unlimited fender-to-hood on the driver’s side. There are some gaps and waves elsewhere, but overall the end results are very good. If you are expecting factory fit-and-finished parts, you will need to spend some time massaging and prepping the fiberglass.
)
The truck is mostly reassembled, with the grill and front marker lights reinstalled. The grill clips are very fragile and you should expect a few to brake during the disassembly/reassembly process. They are very inexpensive and available at any Toyota dealer. The bedsides are shown here are mounted to the rollcage, but that will be covered in another article.
So here it is all put together again and although it’s not evident from the photos, we got what we paid for; a cheap paint job that looks great from ten feet away. And we are HAPPY with it. There are drips, runs, and overspray that we had to clean up, but this truck is being built to use and enjoy without worrying about banging it up a little bit.)
)
Check out this prototype bumper from Hanson Enterprises that we have been working with. It accommodates up to a 9000lb winch or off-road lights in the recessed center-section, and for those who haven’t swapped in solid front axles, an optional skid plate will run down to the front differential. The preliminary rollcage work and rear suspension are visible in several images. We hate to make you curious, but work continues and will be covered in subsequent articles as soon as it’s completed.
This Article was originally published on Off-Road.com January 2004
Have A Comment Or Question About This Article?
We would love to hear any questions or comments you have about this article. Please take a moment to fill out our feedback form.